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The strange thing is I have seen pics of around 4 that have broke and they are near identical in the way they crack straight down the center of the weld.I've seen them to but if you can actually weld, the weld should be stronger than the material itself. The more usual damage would be either at the edge or in the HAZ.
This is making me feel like suzuki doesn't use a full penetrating weld. Maybe its for reasons of flexibility in the frame around turns or something else but I kinda would like to hear the story. To bad I dont have a bike to cut apart to investigate. Hey if indeed do indeed get another frame. Could you do us a favor and cut a cross section out of the other side to see how deep the welds actually are? Being a welder myself I hear you on the weld being stronger then the base metal if done correctly,it almost seems as if the welding wire or rod itself is made up of in superior materials.I think it was member Last Week had his swing arm split the same way right down the center of the weld.I believe his was. I know when i was practicing for my 1 inch SMAW structual cert we used destructive testing of cutting a 3/8' wide cross section and use a tensile tester.
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I think I remember seeing another student fail it with a crack through the middle and it was he had a bad root pass. Now this is so much thinner and the other students followed the edges in the filler passes to the middle of the cap. If they had a bad root pass and only a cap on top that would be your problem. If that were a steel frame, yes, it could be welded and the weld would be as strong as the metal itself. But it's not. It's a precipitation hardened aluminum alloy that has been heat treated after welding.
This can only be done once. Any subsequent welds will drive the precipitants out of phase leaving soft aluminum as the substrate. You can weld big, low stressed casting sections without a problem but not high stressed tubular sections.Thanks guys for all the info.
You guys know a lot about welding. If that were a steel frame, yes, it could be welded and the weld would be as strong as the metal itself. But it's not.
It's a precipitation hardened aluminum alloy that has been heat treated after welding. This can only be done once.
Any subsequent welds will drive the precipitants out of phase leaving soft aluminum as the substrate. You can weld big, low stressed casting sections without a problem but not high stressed tubular sections.Alot of it depends on what treatment it was given the first time it was heat treated.
How was it hardened, oil quench, water quench, any quench at all? Was it hardened then tempered at all? Was it stress relieved the first time all the welding was done? Best thing to do would be tak it to a heat treater first and see if they can tel lyou the cycle. My dad has run a heat treater for 30 years, sometimes will touch a bike frame sometimes he wont it all depends on what he finds out about it. Alot of it depends on what treatment it was given the first time it was heat treated.
How was it hardened, oil quench, water quench, any quench at all? Was it hardened then tempered at all? Was it stress relieved the first time all the welding was done? Best thing to do would be tak it to a heat treater first and see if they can tel lyou the cycle. My dad has run a heat treater for 30 years, sometimes will touch a bike frame sometimes he wont it all depends on what he finds out about it.Heat treating a phase hardened aluminum that is used for frames, such as 6061 serves a different purpose than heat treating steel or soft aluminum alloys. It is to bring the magnesium precipitation alloy slightly out of phase to form microscopic granules to lock the crystalline structure.
This process never stops and is accelerated by heat. And it can't be reversed though heat treatment other than to completely melt the aluminum down and start over. Once the granules become too big, they lose their ability to lock the crystalline structure and you lose a lot of strength. The reason it can be welded at the time of manufacture is that the heat application period is short so it doesn't have time to bring the magnesium out of phase. It is heat treated after manufacture to to age it.
Subsequent heat applications weaken it. I bought a used frame off eBay, but it has had the VIN scratched off so I can't legally use that frame on the street.
And that is going to be my daily driver once it's fixed. A frame with a clean vin and title costs more than what I can afford right now.
It appears that everyone missed this. He bought a used frame off of ebay. Now I understand tight money and all but don't support thieves by obviously buying a stolen bike frame. The VIN has been scratched out of it?
You realize that you could get in a world of crap if John E Law ever realized that wasnt the titled frame for your registration. You'd likely have the bike taken with your good engine and running gear in the stolen frame. Not to mention having to fight a case of did you steal the bike/frame or did you receive stolen goods? It appears that everyone missed this.
He bought a used frame off of ebay. Now I understand tight money and all but don't support thieves by obviously buying a stolen bike frame. The VIN has been scratched out of it? You realize that you could get in a world of crap if John E Law ever realized that wasnt the titled frame for your registration. You'd likely have the bike taken with your good engine and running gear in the stolen frame. Not to mention having to fight a case of did you steal the bike/frame or did you receive stolen goods?
True.,I missed that. I don't like theives or those who support them. Again, get a new bike. Stay away from the used 'vin erased' kind.
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